Frequently asked questions

Within the Netherlands the postage charge is € 6,99 for a package up to 2 kg with a tracking code. 

Postage charge for countries outside Netherlands will be calculated during checkout.

Please note: Extra charges for customs en VAT are the customers responsibility.

We aim to to send out the order within 2 business days. A tracking code is provided so you can check the expected delivery date.

In summertime, around holidays or other special situations your order can be sent out later than normal but we will try to inform you about that.

 

If you want to return your order, there is a 14 calendar day cancellation period in which you can notify Studio Spintol of your intent to cancel your order. This cooling off period becomes active from the day you receive your order.
You are responsible for the cost of return postage unless the item is deemed to be faulty (excl. slight imperfections since they won’t affect the quality of your spindle and provide a unique charm to your spindle).
A refund shall be made within 14 calendar days of receipt of the item. It is your responsibility to send back and obtain proof of postage. In the likelihood of the returned product going missing in transit, you are to pursue your postage provider for compensation as the product is legally yours until a refund is issued.

Alternatively, if preferred, we will also be happy to exchange the item.

Items must be returned in the original condition, with original packaging and must be free from scent and animal hair. Items not in original condition cannot be resold and will be returned to you. Refund or exchange will not be issued.

Refunds will be processed using the method of payment that you have used.

Items returned from outside the EU must be clearly marked on the customs label as “returned merchandise” so as not to attract import duty / VAT. Please also write “Returning to country of origin” on the package too. If you attempt to return the package incorrectly and we receive a customs fee notification, this will be ignored and the items will automatically be returned to you.

Damage to a product because of misuse is out of warranty and cannot be returned or refunded. For example:

• Letting wet socks on sock blockers dry on heater. This will deform the deform the sock blockers.
• Breaking the fall of a spindle by putting your knees together with force. This could break the spindle.
• Dropping a drop spindle to the floor upside down causing the hook to break off.

In all of these cases please feel free to contact us. We will do our best to repair the product if that is possible. Extra costs could be charged for reparations.

My Turkish spindles come in three models (Athena, Aphrodite and Artemis) and each model comes in four sizes, with weights that vary depending on the type of wood. There is also a separate model, which only comes in 1 size. I can imagine it might be difficult to choose, especially if you are new to spinning. I’m about to go through it all step by step so your choice will hopefully be a lot easier later on!

Although it is appealing to look primarily at the appearance of a spindle, the weight of the spindle is actually much more important. The weight determines what kind of yarn you can spin on it and how it feels in your hand. My advice is therefore: first try to determine an ideal weight for yourself, and only then choose the best spindle!

The sizes and weights of my spindles

To provide a bit of structure, I have divided my spindles into four sizes. The spindles are all the same size for each size.
However, some woods are heavier by themselves than others. The fact that the different models also all use a different amount of wood creates a nice distribution of weights. In the same size and of the same wood, the Artemis will always be the heaviest and the Athena will always be the lightest. The Aphrodite is always nicely in between.

Because of all these characteristics, there is some overlap in the weight classes per size, and it could theoretically even happen (at the risk of making it very complicated now) that a spindle in a larger size, is still lighter than one in the size below it.

Size 1

• Weight class model Athena: 6-10 grams
• Weight class model Aphrodite: 7-10 grams
• Weight class model Artemis: 8-12 grams
• Size: 7.5 cm (width of cross) by 9.5 cm (length of shaft)

This spindle is perfect for spinning the very thinnest yarns, such as lace. It spins at a very high speed. The spindle will spin quite long provided you spin very thin singles on it. If your singles are not that thin yet, the spindle will turn back quickly. For beginners who have never spun before, this spindle is very challenging and may be best used with the park & draft method until you get the hang of spinning.

Size 2

• Weight class model Athena: 10-20 grams
• Weight class model Aphrodite: 11-18 grams
• Weight class model Artemis: 13-22 grams
• Size: 10 cm (width of cross) by 13 cm (length of shaft)

This is a more versatile size. You can spin lace yarns as well as fingering yarns on it. This spindle can also spin at high speed and will spin for a very long time if you spin the singles appropriate to this weight. Beginners who have already practiced, or taken a course, will have little trouble continuing to spin on this accessible spindle.

Size 3

• Weight class model Athena: 17-32 grams
• Weight class model Aphrodite: 17-35 grams
• Weight class model Artemis: 22-38 grams
• Size: 12 cm (width of cross) by 16 cm (length of shaft)

The most versatile spindle is this size 3. It is suitable for somewhat thicker yarns, from fingering to yarns for needle size 4mm. It spins for a long time (especially the heavier ones within this class), even if your single is not super thin.
I recommend this spindle to start with if you have never spun before. You can do the park & draft method with it, but of course you can also spin super fine as you go.

Size 4

• Weight class model Athena: up to 50 grams
• Weight class model Aphrodite: up to 50 grams
• Weight class model Artemis: up to 50 grams
• Size: 13.5 (width of cross) by 19 cm (length of shaft)

These are the powerhouses among spindles, weighing up to 50 grams, depending on the type of wood. This spindle is ideal for spinning the thickest yarns. For beginners, this spindle is somewhat less suitable because the higher weight will cause your thread to break more quickly. Of course, you can start and practice playing with the park & draft method very well. This spindle is also often used for plying.

The models

The three models of my Turkish spindles are mainly an aesthetic choice and basically have no influence on the function or use of the spindle. So mainly choose a model that you like and that makes you happy!

Hebe

Then there is the Hebe, the benjamin. This spindle cannot be placed in the previously mentioned classes, which is why I mention it separately. The stick of the Hebe is as long as the sticks of the size 1, but the width of the cross is even narrower, namely 6 cm. Because of the model, just a little more wood goes in, so the weight of this Hebe is about the same as the spindles in size 1.

Still, there is a difference. Because the arms of the cross are a little less wide, this spindle spins a little faster. Think of the principle of a figure skater turning a pirouette – if she brings her arms closer to her body, her speed goes up. This spindle is designed to spin the thinnest threads, such as silk. The spindle spins fast and because of the super-thin singles, also very long. A must-have for the lover!

Advice

• If you have never spun before, a size 3 spindle is a perfect choice. You can spin sock thickness yarn on it, but also thicker yarn of needle size 4mm, for example. Even if you want to give a spindle as a gift to someone who has never spun before, this size is an ideal choice.
• If you have spun before, you can take a size 2 or 4 in addition to the size 3. To choose between the two, you can look at what kind of yarn you like to make and base your choice on that. Choose the size 2 if you want to make thin yarn and size 4 if you like to make thick yarn. Another thing you can pay attention to if you already have some spinning experience is to what your hands are comfortable spinning. Each hand “by itself” spins a certain thickness when you are mindless. For some that is thinner and for others it is thicker.
• If you are an experienced spinner and perhaps already have one or more spindles, you might want to take a look at which spindle you are missing from your collection. What weight would be a good addition? Would a large, heavier spindle be nice, for plying, for example? Then look at a size 4.
  Or do you like having a super-light spindle to accompany you on a trip? Then choose a size 1 or a Hebe.
• If you have spun before and have some experience, you can also look at what thickness of yarn is easiest to make with which spindle, and choose from there.

Try it yourself!

Still in doubt? Visit us at one of the creative fairs where Studio Spintol is present. There you can try out all the models and sizes for yourself and get personal advice to find the perfect spinning top for your project!

Of course, you can also send me an e-mail and I will help you with a personalized advice tailored to your needs!

 

The terms Woolen and Worsted refer to both the spinning technique used and the characteristics of the yarn you create. Opt for worsted spinning when you need a strong, smooth, and durable yarn. Or, try woolen spinning for light, warm, and soft yarns.

Worsted Spun Yarns

For 100% worsted-spun yarn, combed fibers like top are used. These fibers are aligned neatly in parallel and spun tightly on a suspended spindle, such as a Turkish spindle. This creates a smooth and sturdy yarn with minimal air. While worsted yarns are less elastic, they are exceptionally strong and durable. They are ideal for socks or projects where stitch definition, such as cables, is important.

Woolen Spun Yarns

For 100% woolen-spun yarn, carded fibers like roving are used. These fibers are more randomly aligned, resulting in a loftier, woolier yarn. To achieve a true woolen effect, spin the roving on a supported spindle using the long draw technique. You can also achieve 100% woolen yarn by spinning from the fold with roving on a suspended spindle. Woolen yarns are light, elastic, and excellent at retaining warmth.

Semi-Woolen and Semi-Worsted

Of course, there are hybrid techniques that combine elements of both. However, these blends are never a true 50-50, as the spinning technique tends to have more influence than the fiber preparation.

• If you spin combed top using a long draw technique, it’s called a semi-woolen yarn. Since the long draw technique belongs to the woolen category, the result is considered semi-woolen.
• On the other hand, if you spin roving with a suspended spindle (e.g., a Turkish spindle hanging below your fiber supply), the result is called a semi-worsted yarn.

Ready to Practice?

If you’d like to practice both woolen and worsted spinning, I have two types of Corriedale fibers in my collection, available in soft pastel colors. Both are beginner-friendly – the Soft Start Roving is perfect for creating woolen yarns with the long draw technique. And the Soft Start Top is ideal for worsted yarns spun suspended below your fiber supply – for example, on a Turkish spindle.

If you’d like to try using your Turkish spindle in a supported way, give it a go! If the tip of your spindle shaft is slightly pointed (as with my Turkish spindles), it can work very well as a supported spindle. This is a great opportunity to practice the long draw technique. Pair it with the Soft Start Roving, and you’ll spin your first woolen yarn in no time!